Zanzibar / Tanzania: My Honest Verdict After the Overtourism Boom
Updated: Sep 16
The first time I dreamed about Zanzibar, it went exactly the way it almost always does: turquoise water, white sand, spice islands, sunsets that look like they're straight out of a travel brochure. And yes, all of that really does exist. But after I'd actually been there — first to Zanzibar, then a day safari into Tanzania — my story afterward was no longer the polished, glossy version. It's more honest. And I believe that's exactly what you need before you book yourself.
Safari First, Beach After – The Classic Combination
Most people traveling to Tanzania combine the mainland with Zanzibar: a few days of safari in the Serengeti or the Ngorongoro Crater, followed by a few days on the beach to let it all sink in. That's exactly what we didn't want to do. Because the contrast is huge — dust, vastness and wildlife on one side, salt water and stillness on the other. There are several daily flight connections between Kilimanjaro, Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, so the logistics are less complicated than you might think. But that also means mass tourism there is all the greater. So we decided to travel to Zanzibar only at first, to explore the island, and from there take a day safari into Mikumi National Park.
The North of Zanzibar: Dream Beach or Party Strip?
Here's the part many travel blogs prefer to stay quiet about. The north of the island, around Nungwi and Kendwa, is considered postcard Zanzibar — and that's exactly why it's been built up so heavily in recent years. Massive all-inclusive resorts line up one after another, where ten years ago there was still a quiet fishing village. I spoke with people who knew Nungwi a decade ago, and even they were surprised at how densely built-up it has become. That doesn't mean it's ugly there — the beaches are still spectacular, the sunsets legendary. But "untouched dream island" is no longer an accurate description of the north.
A few numbers that surprised me too: in 2024, Zanzibar recorded over 736,755 tourists. Tourism's share of the island's economic output grew by 15.4% between 2023 and 2024. That's an enormous dependence on a single industry — and it explains why construction along the coast continues at record pace.
The East: Where Zanzibar Still Smells a little like Africa
What personally won me over was the east coast — Matemwe, Pongwe, Jambiani. It's noticeably quieter here, the accommodations are smaller and often locally run, and you can still sense why people fell in love with this island in the first place. There are still almost no "brunch restaurants or Insta-spots" here. One thing many people don't know: the east coast has a very pronounced tidal range. At low tide, the water can retreat over a kilometer — beautiful to look at, but not always practical for a spontaneous swim. That's one of those details you should know beforehand so you're not disappointed. During the day, you'll need to find something else to do besides lounging and swimming at the beach.
A real showcase example is Chumbe Island, a small nature reserve with an intact coral reef that's entirely financed through sustainable tourism. Over 90% of the staff come from the region, many former fishermen now work there as rangers or boat guides, and the revenue has already enabled more than 12,000 school and community visits as part of environmental education programs. To me, that's proof that tourism in Zanzibar doesn't have to come at the island's expense — it depends a great deal on where, and with whom, you book.
My Insider Tip: A Day Safari by Small Plane Straight From Zanzibar
There's one option I'd personally recommend the most, if your time or budget doesn't stretch to a multi-day safari: a day trip safari, straight from Zanzibar. We set off early in the morning, in a small propeller plane from Zanzibar Airport toward Mikumi National Park on the mainland — and actually landed right in the middle of the park. That moment when the small airstrip appears in the bush and you step out and can already see the first animals in the distance is an experience in itself.
The organization was impressively well-timed: as soon as we landed, everyone was distributed onto the safari vehicles, and off we went — everything ran like clockwork. Honestly, we were pretty nervous at first, because it wasn't long before we were driving off-road, which isn't actually allowed everywhere. But that's exactly what let us get within about a meter of lions — our vehicle had no windows, just open sides. I'll admit it: in that moment, I was genuinely uneasy. But that closeness to the wilderness is exactly what makes the day so special.
On this one day we saw many lions, giraffes, elephants, buffalo, hippos and countless other animals — far more than we'd expected. In between, we made a stop at a beautiful lodge in the middle of the national park, for lunch and to catch our breath, before heading back to the plane and on to Zanzibar.
To me, this is the perfect option if the classic route — "multi-day safari first, then Zanzibar" — is too long or too expensive for you. A single day is really enough. Price-wise, we paid around CHF 400 per person. For us, it was worth every franc.
My Verdict: Is Zanzibar Still Worth It?
Yes — but with your eyes open. For me, a mindful trip to Zanzibar means: choosing the east coast over the overcrowded northern beaches, if peace and authenticity matter more to you than the most famous view. Deliberately booking locally run accommodations instead of international chains — the money is more likely to stay on the island. Actively supporting Chumbe Island or similar projects if you get the chance. Considering the off-season instead of peak season if your travel dates are flexible — fewer crowds, often better prices. And, quite fundamentally: not treating the island merely as a backdrop, but with respect for the people who live there.
Zanzibar enchanted me — but not the Instagram part of it. It was the moments when I realized how much of the island still exists beyond the glossy resorts. If you're planning a trip to Tanzania or Zanzibar and this exact balance between dream beach and a clear conscience matters to you: that's exactly the kind of route I work out together with you.
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